From Vivero to A Coruña - Galicia Culinary
To say it in advance, this part of the trip is not about nautical miles and great things with the boat. This time it is about the culinary experiences during port days in Spain.
Nevertheless, I simply put a sailing summary of the first four weeks at the beginning:
1082 nautical miles from Kiel to A Coruña, of which 732 nm sailed, 350nm in about 62 hours under engine- Largest Etmal 148 nm on 20.05.23 on the Bay of Biscay with maximum 31kn wind. 1.3 days Kiel Canal, 15 sailing days, average about 72 nm, 12 days in ports!
Our port of arrival in Spain, Vivero, is a really good port, it has at least two advantages from sailing point of view:
1. it is the first port coming from the north,
2. more importantly, the deep ria (estuary) with its many rocky headlands calms the swell from the Atlantic. In the marina, which is located on the left side of the canalized estuary, it is absolutely quiet. No other harbor is said to be so quiet, report Regina and Bernd from the Marretje in Flensburg. Shortly after we arrive here, the new location report is hardly out, I get from Jochen from St. Malo the order to go directly to the two and to give greetings. I do of course, the surprise is big, also because in the conversation it turns out that we have other mutual acquaintances. We will spend very nice days together.
In the travel guide it is said to Vivero: the coastal town with about 15000 inhabitants is one of the most sympathetic and pleasant spots of the Ria Altas. In the outskirts, especially on the harbor side, high-rise buildings are sprouting, on the west side numerous hotels and vacation villas, but the old core has retained its charm. The old town is still partly surrounded by the medieval city wall, into which some houses are built. There are many bars and cafes and some small stores in the old town. Everything invites to an extended stroll, especially in the evening. On the first evening we stop at the marketplace in the Cerveceria A Resaca, the kitchen opens at 20:00, typical, is almost everywhere so. We eat tapas, drink first Estrella Galicia from the bottle, then the local beer and red wine and thus begins our culinary experience journey. The next day we sit with Regina and Bernd at Don Tomas at the marina, there is a mixed paella, we had to order in the morning for the three of us, potatoes in aiolo sauce, squid rings and more goodies. It is indescribably good, costs 15€/person and we do not manage everything. The host is Cuban and has lived in Spain for many years. To continue, we are so thrilled that we order again for the eve of our departure, fish platter, grilled for 5 people. 5 Google stars for Don Tomas!
From Vivero a hiking trail leads through dense forest to the Mirador San Roque, we manage the 1175 ft. of altitude in one hour up and one and a half hours down. Cappuccino and cake is appropriately earned.
In Vivero I have certainly not been the last time!
Via Cedeiro to A Coruna
The destination of this leg of the journey, however, is A Coruña. After 6 days the constant north wind with its 5-6 Bft. finally becomes less and we sail in the still 3-6 feet high swell under motor to Cedeira (31,9 nm). Cedeira is an anchorage with little harbor facilities, which is used by local fishermen at high tide. We enjoy the beach from the mooring and I go "swimming". As in the Baltic Sea, estimated 16 °Centigrate water temperature make this a refreshing bath. Fits nevertheless with the beautiful sun weather. In the evening there is then galley: Tortellini with pesto and salad.
The next day brings us under sail in five and a half hours with a beautiful north wind to A Coruña (28.1 nm). We moor in the most central of the three marinas, the Marina Real of the RCNC, the Real Club Nautico de A Coruña. It is recommended to moor either at the waiting pontoon or to call the Capitano on channel 9. Channel 9 is also used by Porto Marina Coruña. From there we get a berth assigned to us. With the registration in the office it turns out however that this place would have been in the Marina, here is free by coincidence, maber one does not know, when the owner comes back. So again moving the boat, the harbor master helps. In general, there are very helpful people who take care of us here. Service for the guests is very important.
A word about the berth: there is always some movement, the swell from the Atlantic is in the bay, but at night, when the fishermen go in and out, the Marina Real is regularly buffeted by massive bow and stern waves. I buy new backstops to install in short line leaders, having left my own at home with the heavy mooring ropes....
Our culinary journey continues here; it's mostly the cafes, the cake, the cappuccino. And the tapas and the cold plates of bread and the fish and the steak, and, and, and....
The days pass quickly here, the guidebook says: "Vigo works, Pontevedra sleeps, Santiago prays...and A Coruña? A Coruña dances.... It feels very relaxed here, even though just under 250,000 inhabitants crowd into 43 square kilometers. By comparison, Kiel, with a similar population, has more than 120 km². At first glance, the cityscape is characterized by the glazed balconies. The picturesque old town opens up during a nice walk. But also who wants to store does not come too short, here there are all European brands with their own stores. Presumably, this variety is due to the almost daily cruise calls of really gigantic ships and the proximity to Santiago de Compostella.
We enjoy the life here, visit the aquarium and look at the lighthouse Torre de Hérkules, whose substructure dates back to Roman times (2nd century). Uwe goes swimming in the afternoon, Wolfgang and I go to the café.
On June 1th we get up at 06:00, the cab comes at 07:00 and brings Uwe and Wolfgang to the airport, which is the end of the first part of the trip.
The next weeks we will visit northern Spain, Santiago de Compostella by train, the coast down to Porto by rental car and later the Rias on the northern Spanish coast again by boat. Of it then in the next report from aboard.